LIBRARY 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


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JAM  1895 


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CALIFORNIA: 


AN     HISTORICAL     POEM 


BY 

ALFRED     ROBINSON, 

AUTHOR  OF  "LIFE  IN  CALIFORNIA." 


SAN     FRANCISCO 
WILLIAM  DOXEY. 

1889. 


COPYRIGHT,    1889, 
BY    WILLIAM     DOXEY. 


To 
THE   PIONEERS 'OF  CALIFORNIA 

THIS  WORK 
IS  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED  BY 

THE  AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


The  following  Poem  is  an  attempt  to  delin 
eate  and  expose  the  eccentricities  of  a  country 
whose  sudden  rise  and  progress  have  no  par 
allel  in  the  world's  history ;  and,  in  the  many 
allusions  to  them,  the  author  would  remark 
that  none  are  intended  as  personal,  but,  on 
the  contrary,  mere  outlines  of  events,  transpir 
ing  during  the  first  period  of  California,  under 
a  new  and  alien  system  of  government. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  1 


INTRODUCTION. 


When  Roman  zeal  had  forced  its  way  and  gained 
A  footing  on  the  western  shore,  and  when 
Brave  souls  to  raise  the  cross  and  spread  their  faith 
Within  a  savage  land  had  risked  their  lives — 
'T  was  then  a  place  was  sought  their  patron  saint 
To  dedicate.     A  spacious  bay  inclosed 
By  fertile  lands,  whose  hills  and  vales  were  stored 
With  wondrous  wealth,  through   which  bright 

rivers  roll'd 

And  spread  their  golden  sands  o'  er  all  the  plains 
Around.     The  woods  and  glens  were  rife  with 

game, 

And  there  the  wily  Indian  roamed,  to  chase 
The  deer,  or  there  the  grizzly  bear  to  hunt 
And  fearless  slay.     Oft  to  some  rude  steep  he 
Climb'  d,  and  ling'  ring  on  the  lofty  height,  hailed 
There  with  joy  the  scene  that  lay  beneath.     But 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

Ah  !  a  frown  his  swarthy  brow  did  cross,  when 
On  a  gentle  mound  his  piercing  eye  did 
Rest,  near  which  at  work  some  zealous  priests  the 
Pathless  woods  were  felling,  and  where  clusters 
Of  the  savage  tribes  were  busy  too,  a 
Place  to  clear,  that  there  they  might  a  Christian 
Temple  build  and  elevate  the  cross.     For 
Rapid  strides  the  Fathers  made,  and  daily 
To  their  righteous  fold  did  many  converts 
Gain.     Along  the  hills  and  neighb'ring  shores 

were 

Other  stations,  and  at  every  one,  they 
Prospered   well ;    whilst    here   and    there,    the 

gardens 
Green  and  cultured  fields  that  might  be  seen, 

gave 

Ample  proof  of  how  the  Fathers  lived.     The 
Warrior  too,  gave  sterling  aid,  and  arm'd 
With  buckler,  pike  and  blade,  protection  gave, 
As  briskly  on,  the  conquest  went,  for  Priest 
And  Soldier,  both,  would  save  the  savage  soul. 


PREAMBLE      I. 


One  eve,  as  I  rambled,  not  far 

from  the  city, 
A  poor  woman  I  happened 

to  meet  ; 
Who  said  to  me  sadly,  ' '  Good  sir, 

pray  have  pity, 
And  quick  give  me  relief  I 
entreat. 


UHIVERSIT7 


io  CALIFORNIA. 


"  Since  the  morn's  early  dawn,  in  vain  I've 

sought  food, 
To  keep  my  starved  children  from 

crying, 
A  trifle  from  you  sir,  will  do 

the  babes  good, 

And  save  them  most  surely  from 
dying." 

"Then  haste  thee,  good  mother,"  I  said, 

"and  be  fleet," 
As  I  pressed  in  her  hand  a 

gold  coin ; 
' '  With  this  ye  can  buy  them  abundance 

to  eat, 

So  away,  thy  young  starvelings 
to  join." 


CALIFORNIA.  1 1 


Resuming  my  ramble,  so  sadly 

suspended, 
She  said,  "Stay,  I  have  something 

for  thee ; 
For  kindness  like  thine  to  those  thus 

befriended, 

A  requital  should  have,  sir, 
from  me. 


' '  Accept  then  this  optic,  its 

mystical  sight, 
Will  the  past  like  the  present 

display, 
And  things  that  have  perished  will  bring 

back  to  light, 

Though  to  mem'ry  long  faded 
away. ' ' 


12  CALIFORNIA. 


So  homeward  I  hurried,  o'erjoyed 

at  the  thought 
That  now  I  could  fathom  my 

neighbor ; 
A  test  was  soon  made  on  a  knave 

whom  I  sought 

Whose  faults  were  exposed  without 
labor. 

And  bound  now  to  visit  the  great 

growing  North, 
Where  the  sages  had  built  a  large 

village ; 
I  packed  up  my  treasure  with  which 

I  set  forth, 

To  discover  their  scheming  and 
pillage. 


CALIFORNIA.  13 


A  few  days  at  sea  brings  us  close 

to  the  scene 
Where  swift  up  the  bay  we  are 

gliding ; 
The  current  moves  rapid,  the  wind 

it  blows  keen, 

And  soon,  we  at  anchor  are 
riding. 

Now,  Ho  !  for  a  peep  at  the  great 

golden  city, 
And  I  raise  the  charmed  gift  to 

my  eye  ; 
But  what  do  I  see?    Oh,  great  God, 

in  thy  pity, 

Pray  forgive  all  the  faults  I 
descry  ! 


i4  CALIFORNIA. 


Aloft,  e'en  above  the  high 

telegraph  peak, 
Amid  clouds  of  bright  silver 

and  gold ; 
An  eaglet  doth  soar,  with  this  scroll 

in  her  beak: 

Here  both  Justice  and  Conscience 
are  sold. 

More  central  is  seen  the  fair  Goddess 

of  Fame, 
Her  eyes  glaring  wild  and 

in  ire ; 
A  book  lies  before  her — she  points 

to  its  name, 
'  T  is  written  in  letters 
of  fire — 


SAN     FRANCISCO. 


CANTO     I. 


Two  rapid  streams  from  ages  known, r 
That  in  their  course  conjoined  had  grown, 

The  legends  tell ; 

And  flowing  on,  o'er  vast  domains, 
Through  flowery  meads  and  grassy  plains, 

A  lake  did  swell. 


Whence  bursting  o'er  its  rocky  bound, 
Their  ceaseless  flow  bold  egress  found, 

Thus  fresh  and  fair ; 
To  sportive  join  the  briny  deep, 
Therein  to  rage,  or  there  to  sleep 

With  waveless  care. 


1 8  CALIFORNIA. 

And  flowing  on,  still  swift  they  ran, 

E'  er  deep'  ning  where  their  breach  began 

Its  shallow  strait; 
Till  by  their  flow  was  oped  a  way, 
Disclosing  now  a  spacious  bay, 

In  pristine  state. 

Where  'twas  that  came  in  after  years,2 
That  holy  band  of  Pioneers, 

Of  whom  we  read; 

Whose  active  zeal  did  thousands  win 
From  Pagan  rites  and  Pagan  sin 

To  Rome's  fair  creed. 

And  once  a  year  a  gallant  sail, 

From  Castile's  shore,  with  Royal  mail, 

Then  cheered  the  port; 
Where  safely  moored,  for  months  she  lay, 
Dispensing  out,  from  day  to  day, 

The  aid  she  brought. 


CALIFORNIA.  19 

But  not  till  Spain's  proud  sway  was  o'er,3 
Did  other  ships  these  wilds  explore, 

Or  traffic  here ; 

And  then  so  rare  that  they  appeared, 
Whene'er  one  came,  'twas  gladly  cheered, 

E'en  far  and  near. 

When  in  a  nook  that  sheltered  lay, 
Called  ' '  Yerba  Buena, ' '  in  its  day, 

The  anch'rage  ground ; 
Were  bartered  off  the  wares  she  brought, 
In  change  for  product  found  in  port, 

At  posts  around. 

And  thus  it  was,  those  early  days, 
Gave  little  else  of  note  to  praise, 

From  year  to  year  ; 

Unless,  perchance,  some  new-raised  cot, 
Or  rustic  cross,  on  some  lone  spot, 

The  way  to  cheer. 


20  CALIFORNIA. 

Yet  many  an  inroad  had  been  made, 
Ere  progress  dared  to  lift  the  shade 

Where  darkness  lay ; 
And  then  the  task  a  hero  braved, 
As  step  by  step,  he  boldly  paved 

The  cultured  way. 

A  gallant  Swiss,  whose  love  of  fame,4 
Bestowed  " Helvetia's"  classic  name 

On  those  broad  lands  ; 
Where  he,  so  long,  had  chieftain  been, 
And  where  e'en  now,  his  home  is  seen, 

And  sightly  stands. 

At  length  a  war  with  neighb'ring  foes,5 
Brought  with  it  all  the  ills  and  woes 

That  cause  dismay ; 

When  changed  the  scene  before  so  bright, 
For  all  its  charms  of  old  took  flight, 

And  passed  away. 


CALIFORNIA.  21 


But  haply  here  the  strife  was  short, 
For  ships  of  war  besieged  the  fort, 

Within  the  bay ; 

When  all  its  posts,  on  either  side, 
Submissive  bowed,  with  humbled  pride, 

To  alien  sway. 

And  so,  the  foe,  now  sovereign  here, 
His  laws  proclaimed,  afar  and  near, 

Throughout  the  land ; 
O'er  which  waved  free,  from  many  a  height, 
The  emblem  of  his  country's  right, 

Long  there  to  stand. 

From  which  events  we  justly  date, 
The  magic  rise  of  this  our  State, 

To  rank  and  name  ; 
That  in  this  bold,  progressive  age, 
Takes  signal  part  on  history's  page, 

Indeed,  of  fame. 


U1TI7ERSITF' 


22  CALIFORNIA. 

For  as  progression  forced  its  way, 

To  lands  yet  rude,  o'er  which  held  sway, 

A  supine  race  ; 

Its  active  march  to  light  revealed 
A  golden  tract,  till  now  concealed, 

Of  wondrous  space. 

Which  news  soon  spread  afar  and  wide, 
Till  freely  told  on  every  side, 

In  statements  rare, 

That  as  they  went,  so  wild  they  grew, 
Their  glowing  tales  the  eager  drew, 

To  grasp  a  share. 

For  thus  allured  with  hope  of  gain, 
Their  thousands  formed  a  living  chain, 

O'er  land  and  sea  ; 

Whose  thoughts  by  day,  and  dreams  by  night, 
Of  "  El  Dorado  ' '  visions  bright, 

Gave  joy  and  glee. 


CALIFORNIA.  23 

For  gold  it  was,  they  frantic  sought, 
And  't  was  for  gold  the  seas  they  fought, 

And  tempests  scorned ; 
God  only  knows  the  victims  dead, 
Whose  forms  bestrew  the  ocean  bed, 

Perchance  unmourned  ! 

Yet  many  a  ship  in  triumph  brought 
Her  living  cargo  safe  to  port, 

For  transit  here , 
And  truly  'twas  a  treat  to  see, 
These  Argonauts  on  shore,  set  free, 

So  full  of  cheer. 

Indeed,  in  fleets  they  crossed  our  Gate, 
Each  gallant  bark  replete  with  freight, 

Of  product  rare ; 

More  prized  than  gems  of  precious  gold, 
For  freights  they  were  of  freemen  bold, 

And  matrons  fair. 


24  CALIFORNIA. 

That  soon  the  barren  hills  made  gay, 
With  thousands  there,  at  work  or  play, 

From  morn  till  night ; 
Whose  armed  display  and  tents  around, 
Had  semblance  to  some  battle-ground, 

Or  fortress  height. 

Whence  now  embarked  they  went  in  bands, 
To  seek,  betimes,  the  golden  lands, 

Yet  far  away ; 

And  'twas  indeed  a  merry  sight, 
To  see  them  off,  with  hopes  so  bright, 

And  hearts  so  gay. 

The  Sharp,  howe'er,  saw  golden  cheer, 
In  daily  schemes  of  profit  here, 

For  him  to  rule ; 

And  soon  to  work  his  wits  he  set, 
That  he  might  draw  within  his  net, 

Some  pliant  tool. 


CALIFORNIA.  25 

The  Merchant,  too,  remained  behind, 
A  shelter  for  his  wares  to  find, 

And  give  them  care  ; 
For  merchandise  that  came  to  hand, 
And  lay  exposed  upon  the  strand, 

Had  perished  there ! 

The  Landlord,  too,  thought  best  to  stay, 
And  in  his  own  peculiar  way, 

Do  service  here  ; 

Preparing  homes  with  special  care, 
For  those  who  sought  his  humble  fare, 

And  promised  cheer. 

The  Lawyer,  though,  bright  visions  saw, 
In  counsel  fees,  and  suits  at  law, 

That  promised  pay  ; 
And  so  to  anchor  quickly  came, 
To  reap  his  share  of  all  such  game, 

That  came  in  play. 


26  CALIFORNIA. 


The  Court  House  then  on  "Portsmouth  Square'' 
Was  oft  the  scene  of  judgments  rare, 

And  quaint  decrees ; 
And  who  doth  not  recall  the  way 
The  merchant  service  had  to  pay, 

Its  fines  and  fees  ? 


For  scarce  a  ship  that  reached  the  port, 

But  brought  some  knave  who  soon  was  sought 

A  claim  to  make  ; 
And  then  divide  the  plunder  got, 
With  him,  who  was  the  wily  sot, 

The  suit  to  take. 

That  tiny,  dingy,  loathsome  Court ! 

'  T  was  there  the  steamships  first  were  sought, 

As  legal  prey ; 

And  dearly  did  their  agent  bleed, 
To  pay  the  sums  the  Court  decreed 

To  give  away. 


CALIFORNIA.  27 

The  Gamester,  too,  from  choice  remained, 
Whose  moral  scruples  ne'er  restrained, 

His  love  for  play  ; 
Nor  luring  to  some  modern  hell, 
The  simple  youth,  who  ever  fell, 

An  easy  prey. 

For  all  such  dens,  now  served  with  care, 
Adorned  with  gaudy  trappings  rare, 

The  weak  allured ; 
And  he,  who  ventured  there  to  look, 
Was  trolled  along  to  take  the  hook, 

And  then  secured. 

What  glaring  sights  were  seen  around, 
When,  in  each  street,  the  idler  found 

A  place  like  this  ! 

When  games  of  chance,  and  music  too, 
So  charmed  the  crowds  that  thither  drew, 

They  thought  it  bliss. 


28  CALIFORNIA. 

At  night,  as  one  the  streets  did  pace, 
He  saw,  what  seemed  in  every  place, 

Some  magic  spell ; 

Where  there  the  charms  of  song  and  dance, 
That  so  the  joys  of  life  enhance, 

Did  freely  dwell. 

And  other  scenes  were  blithe  and  gay, 
Where  tipplers  passed  their  time  away, 

Like  sots  of  old  ; 

And  sat  and  talked  morn,  noon  and  night, 
Of  startling  deeds,  and  bloody  fight, 

For  lust  of  gold. 

The  Parson,  too,  resolved  to  stay, 
But  not  fair  maid  to  give  away, 

Oh,  no  indeed ! 

For  maidens  then  were  scarce,  I  ween, 
And,  in  the  town,  too  rarely  seen, 

Such  aid  to  need. 


CALIFORNIA.  29 

He  tarried  here,  in  hope,  forsooth, 
To  lure  some  stray 'd  and  fallen  youth, 

From  sin  to  prayer  ; 
And  carry  back  to  other  days 
His  thoughts  of  home  and  early  ways, 

When  bright  and  fair. 

The  Doctor,  too,  attractions  saw, 
And,  like  the  trickster  of  the  law, 

Beheld  his  prey ; 

For  soon  the  miner,  sore  displeased, 
Came  limping  from  the  mines,  diseased, 

With  means  to  pay. 

And  thus,  a  harvest,  rich  indeed, 

Came  pouring  in,  whilst  hearts  did  bleed 

For  friends  of  old ; 
For  brothers,  or  some  other  kin, 
Who  victims  fell,  to  worldly  sin 

Of  lust  for  gold. 


30  CALIFORNIA. 

The  graveyard  then,  o'er  North  Beach  hill, 
Betrayed  the  march  of  many  an  ill, 

From  day  to  day  ; 

Whose  grassy  mounds  the  numbers  told, 
Of  those,  alas !  both  young  and  old, 

That  pass'd  away. 

Thus  hoary  Time,  his  transit  sped, 

And  though  fond  hearts  too  oft  had  bled 

At  scenes  like  these, 
The  State  at  large  had  much  to  cheer, 
For  Mammon  cast  his  treasure  here, 

The  world  to  please. 

And  though  its  millions  passed  away 
To  other  shores,  from  day  to  day, 

In  virgin  gold ; 

They  did  not  drain  these  staunch  domains, 
So  rich  were  all  the  hills  and  plains 

With  wealth  untold. 


CALIFORNIA.  31 

The  Sages,  wild  at  these  extremes, 
Began  reform  in  all  their  schemes, 

Without  delay  ; 

And  soon  proposed  their  acts  to  crown, 
By  special  change  from  chartered  town 

To  city  sway. 

When  they,  who  held  the  public  weal, 
Did  from  the  public  eye  conceal 

Their  knavish  plans ; 
By  sales  of  lands  and  contracts,  too, 
'  Mong  those  ycleped  the  chosen  few 

Of  favored  clans. 

But  this,  howe'er,  was  nothing  new, 
For  oft  the  town  had  done  so,  too, 

In  early  days ; 

Though  then  esteemed  of  minor  spoil, 
And  did  not  friends  and  foes  embroil 

In  wrangling  frays. 


32  CALIFORNIA. 

But  where  bold  peculation  laid, 
Was  in  the  sales  by  Sheriff  made, 

Of  public  land ; 

To  pay  a  judgment  gained  in  law 
By  Peter  Smith,  who  quickly  saw 

The  game  on  hand. 

In  sorry  truth,  sin  grew  apace, 
And  sowed  its  seeds  in  every  place, 

To  feast  thereon  ; 
The  city  seeming  all  fair  game, 
For  every  one  of  vicious  fame 

To  prey  upon. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  "Botany  Bay" 
Of  convict  rogues,  skilled  every  way 

In  fearful  crime ; 

Whose  hellish  scenes  of  dreadful  fire, 
And  murder,  too,  that  did  transpire, 

Gave  test  in  time. 


CALIFORNIA.  33 

The  people  roused  at  length,  to  ire,6 
Resolved  these  fiends  should  hence  retire, 

By  force  of  arms  ; 

And  formed  at  once,  a  gallant  band, 
Each  member  sworn  to  rid  the  land 

Of  all  such  harms. 

And  well  they  kept  their  oaths,  forsooth, 
For  prompt  the  rogues  in  every  booth 

Were  made  secure ; 

When  one  bold  stroke  on  * '  Portsmouth  Square, ' ' 
A  hanging  matter,  did  declare 

Their  vengeance  sure. 

But,  truly,  'twas  a  sight  most  sad, 
To  thus  behold  a  crowd,  half-mad 

Gloat  o'er  its  foe; 

But  who  can  say  the  course  pursued 
Had  not  at  least  its  moral  good, 

Though  crowned  with  woe  ! 


34  CALIFORNIA. 

A  few  such  chast'nings  spread  alarm. 
For  soon  the  culprits  fled  from  harm 

By  land  and  sea  ; 

And  through  the  State,  the  issue  proved 
A  sovereign  check,  where  treason  moved, 

That  left  it  free. 

And  now,  triumphant  over  crime, 
These  guardsmen  brave  have  left  to  time 

To  solve  their  acts ; 
And,  in  disbanding,  each  has  placed 
The  part  he  took,  to  be  retraced, 

And  judged  from  facts. 


PREAMBLE     II. 


A  boat  was  now  waiting,  to  take 

us  on  shore, 
With  our  luggage  already 

therein  ; 
So  quickly  we  followed,  the  town 

to  explore, 

And  in  haste  the  grand  work 
to  begin. 


36  CALIFORNIA. 


On  landing  we  rode  to  the  nearest 

hotel, 
O'er  a  sadly  conditioned, 

rude  pier; 
Whose  planking  was  such  though  we  passed 

o'er  it  well, 

As  to  cause  us,  with  reason, 
much  fear. 

For  every  few  paces  a  hole 

was  passed  by, 
Yawning  wide  to  the  waters 

below, 
Where  many  a  victim  had  drawn 

his  last  sigh, 
As  o'er  him  the  current 
did  flow. 


CALIFORNIA.  37 


The  avenues,  too,  were  quite  out 

of  repair, 
So  that  jolting,  we  went  all 

the  way ; 
Till  reaching  our  lodgings,  we  paid 

the  coach  fare, 
And  alighted  without  more 
delay. 

The  famous  ' '  Tehama ' ' !     Yes,  this 

was  the  place, 
Whose  lessee,  Master  Frink,  at 

the  door, 
A  welcome  there  gave  us,  with  smiling 

good  grace, 

And  a  room  on  the  second 
flight  floor. 


38  CALIFORNIA. 


This  earthquake  proof  mansion  as  oft 

it  was  named, 
Had  escaped  all  the  ravage 

of  fire , 
Whose  model  was  such  as  to  make 

it  most  famed 

Of  all  others,  when  one  did 
retire. 

Its  windows  were  low,  and  a  fine 

balustrade 
Encircled  the  building 

around ; 
From  whence  one  with  ease,  o'er  a  light 

palisade, 

Could  escape  by  a  leap  to 
the  ground. 


CALIFORNIA.  39 


But  the  time  has  gone  by  for  this 

kind  of  fear 
No  longer  such  clangers 

alarm  ; 
The  fireman  is  prompt,  and  treats 

with  a  jeer 

Every  risk,  so  he  saves  us 
from  harm. 

In  fact,  this  Department,  effective 

and  true, 
Was  made  up  from  the  bloods  of 

the  town ; 

Who  for  boldness  of  tact,  and  clev 
erness,  too, 

Have  maintained  far  and  near  a 
renown. 


40  CALIFORNIA. 


With  this  just  admission,  we  pensive 

lay  down, 
To  reflect  on  the  whims  of 

the  day ; 
And  wondered  if  strangers  that  visit 

the  town, 

Have  observed,  as  we  have,  its 
decay. 

Its  growth  was  too  rapid,  it  merged 

in  a  day, 
As  it  spread  o'er  the  hillocks 

around, 
And  so  will  it  vanish  as  quickly 

away, 

Until  naught  shall  be  left  but 
a  mound. 


CALIFORNIA.  41 


Which  fate  the  rude  Indian  doth  sadly 

foreshow, 
When  relating  his  legend 

of  old; 
How  a  city  would  rise  from  regions 

below, 

And  a  sacrifice  fall  to 
its  gold. 

Five  times  has  it  happened,  the  omen 

'tis  plain, 
When  destruction  by  fire 

ensued  ; 
But,  Phoenix-like,  rising  to  power 

again, 

The  calamity  may  be 
renewed. 


42  CALIFORNIA. 


Come  when  it  will  come,  there  is  hope 

for  it  left, 
And  a  chance  the  sad  presage 

to  foil  ; 
Though  deep  are  the  wounds  which  disaster 

has  cleft, 

Yet  it  still  may  long  prosper 
by  toil. 

Then  courage,  Franciscans  !     On  ye 

it  depends, 
Let  misfortune  come  oft  as 

it  will ; 
Be   honesty   thine,    howsoe'er 

the  tide  wends 
So  that  thus   ye  may  yet 
triumph  still. 


CALIFORNIA.  43 


The  night  passing  o'er,  we  made  haste 

now  to  test 
The  effect  of  our  glass  from 

the  street ; 
And  took  for  our  station,  the  point 

judged  the  best, 

Where  ' '  Montgom'  ry ' '  with  '  'Jackson ' ' 
doth  meet. 


CANTO     II. 


Behold  the  Past!     There  where  you  stand 
The  water  rose  at  God's  command, 

And  bathed  the  shore. 
Whence  gentle  springs,  and  streamlets  fair 
From  out  the  gathered  sand  dunes  there, 

Did  freely  pour. 

And  on  your  right,  where  yet  is  seen 
The  drama's  once  grand  palace  queen, 

A  lakelet  stood, 

In  which  the  wild-fowl  oft  did  play, 
When  blustering  winds  swept  o'er  the  bay, 

In  angry  mood. 


46  CALIFORNIA. 

And  where  Commercial  cuts  your  street 7 
A  mansion  stood  of  frame  complete 

And  model  fit ; 

Whose  halls  oft  rang  with  music's  strain, 
In  love-told  song,  or  sweet  refrain, 

With  frequent  wit. 

Its  mistress  then,  a  charming  dame 
Had  far  and  near,  reputed  fame 

For  grace  and  pride ; 
Who,  queen-like,  at  the  festive  board, 
Oft  joined  her  friends  and  true  liege  lord, 

To  there  preside. 

It  was  the  primal  fabric  then, 
To  cheer  this  lonely  sea-side  glen, 

So  famed  of  yore  ; 
And  mem'ry  dear  must  first  decay, 
E'er  charms  so  prized  shall  pass  away. 

To  charm  no  more. 


CALIFORNIA.  47 

And  further  on,  a  square,  we  '11  say,8 
Where  California  spans  the  way 

Was  Leidesdorff's  pride; 
A  tiny  cottage,  plain  and  neat, 
And  fairest  gem  that  one  could  meet 

Then,  far  and  wide. 

With  garden-plot  of  flowers  rare, 
Kept  ever  bright  and  ever  fair 

By  clever  skill  ; 

From  whence,  abruptly,  shooting  rose 
And  brought  Montgom'ry  to  its  close, 

A  sandy  hill. 

And  when  the  rich  discovered  ore, 
So  many  lured  to  seek  the  shore, 

Then  Leidesdorff  died. 
But  soon  a  kind  successor  came, 
Whose  friendly  acts  endeared  his  name 

On  every  side. 


48  CALIFORNIA. 

For  who  did  not  regard  the  man,9 
When  first  the  tidal  wave  began 

Its  influx  here ; 

Who  unto  all,  that  sought  his  aid 
A  kind  and  generous  hand  displayed, 

With  friendly  cheer. 

And  when  a  project  was  begun 

To  build  a  church,  and  have  it  done 

Without  delay ; 

A  school,  or  lodge,  for  any  good, 
'Twas  he,  who  ever  foremost  stood, 

To  aid  the  way. 

This  tribute  then,  we  deem  in  place, 
For  in  the  city's  weal,  we  trace, 

His  helping  hand ; 

That  in  the  State's  grand  progress,  too, 
The  part  it  took,  and  had  to  do, 

Will  brightly  stand. 


CALIFORNIA.  49 

And  now,  that  bold  aggressive  war, 
No  longer  vexed  this  western  shore, 

By  sea  or  land  ; 

The  powers  at  home,  proposed  a  scheme, 
To  have  each  month,  a  mail  by  steam 

At  their  command. 

But  hard  it  was,  to  find  the  man 
Of  soul  so  great,  to  risk  a  plan, 

That  naught  assured ; 
And  not  till  Gotham's  son  came  forth,10 
The  princely  merchant  of  the  North, 

Was  it  secured. 


When,  thro'  his  zeal,  prompt  means  were  wrought, 
Whereby,  to  reach  this  idol  Port 

And  golden  land ; 

Where  thousands  now  are  here  to-day, 
Who  'd  not  been  here,  but  for  the  way 
Oped  by  his  hand. 


5o  CALIFORNIA. 

For  which  they  laud  him  as  their  friend, 
For  which  the  world  will  e'er  commend 

His  vent'  rous  act  ; 
And  when  we  praise  him  for  it  here, 
We  '11  hail  him  as  the  Pioneer 

In  truth  and  fact. 


But  let  us  turn  to  other  scenes 

Where  progress  now  has  scarce  left  means 

Amidst  our  rise, 

To  trace  the  lines  of  by-gone  days — 
With  all  their  charms,  and  social  ways, 

Save  memory's  ties. 
/ 

There,  on  your  left,  upon  the  strand 
Amid  the  piles  of  drifted  sand, 

That  strewed  the  shore . 
A  warehouse  stood,  that  in  its  day, 
Was  justly  called,  we  well  may  say, 

A  model  store. 


CALIFORNIA.  51 

Where  rolled  the  tides,  so  near  its  base 
They  scarcely  left  a  foot-path  space 

Along  its  side ; 

Which,  when  blocked  up,  as  often  seen. 
Gave  no  spare  room  to  pass  between 

The  house  and  tide. 

Oft  then  a  launch  lay  near  the  shore, 
In  hailing  distance  from  the  store 

The  flood  to  wait ; 
And  when  enabled  by  the  tide 
She,  from  the  very  warehouse  side, 

Embarked  her  freight. 

For  then  the  Steamship's  Agent,  made 
This  famous  spot,  for  truck  and  trade 

His  business  place ; 
Where  now,  upon  the  very  spot 
An  iron  warehouse  fills  the  lot 

With  comely  grace. 


52  CALIFORNIA. 

'Twas  oft  the  scene  of  many  a  strife 
'Twixt  parties,  who,  with  rudeness  rife 

Enforced  their  way ; 
To  be  the  first  to  make  secure 
A  homeward  passage  doubly  sure 

For  steamer  day — 

And  though  it  stood  upon  the  shore 
A  lone  attraction,  as  before 

The  rapid  change ; 
'T  is  now  the  centre  of  the  town, 
And  hid  by  structures  of  renown 

That  round  it  range. 

Still  further  on,  a  space  beyond 
Where  once  was  seen  a  shallow  pond, 

Stood  LeidesdorfTs  store ; 
From  whence  ran  out  a  puny  pier, 
The  first  that  graced  the  landing  here 

Before  the  war — 


CALIFORNIA.  53 

The  searching  eye"  met  nothing  more 
Along  this  unfrequented  shore, 

So  bleak  and  bare  ; 
Till  "  Rincon  Point"  its  craggy  bluff 
Projected  out  with  boldness  rough, 

And  visage  rare. 

Unless  it  were  the  "Happy  Vale" 
That  sheltered  from  the  frequent  gale, 

Was  Cupid's  pride  ; 

Whose  groves  and  walks  from  day  to  day, 
Were  ever  thronged  with  lovers  gay 

From  far  and  wide. 

For  there,  the  trees  and  shrubs  so  green 
With  foliage  rich  as  e'er  was  seen 

In  Paradise ; 

And  flowers,  too,  of  brilliant  hue 
That  fostered  by  the  morning  dew, 

Did  odors  rise. 


'UII7ERSITY 


54  CALIFORNIA. 

And  made  it  thus  a  haunt  for  love, 
Whilst  Nature  there,  the  cooing  dove 

In  pairs  had  sent  ; 

That  by  their  plaintive  notes  so  rare 
They  might  the  hallowed  place  declare 

When  Love  there  went. 


It  was  for  festive  sports  the  spot, 
Where  many  a  crowd  its  surfeit  got, 

Of  joy  and  glee  ; 

As  there  they  chased  dull  care  away, 
From  early  morn  till  close  of  day, 

So  light  and  free. 

And  now,  behold,  upon  your  right, 

Near  "  Simes's  Bank"  friend  Nathan 's  site, 

A  grassy  mound ; 

Where  stood  his  house,  his  mill  and  store, 
With  little  garden,  too,  before, 

All  fenced  around. 


CALIFORNIA.  55 

And  further  on,  where  now  doth  run 

The  street  called  "  Clay"  then  just  begun, 

Lived  Vioget;12 

Whose  fancy  cottage  and  saloon 
Were  ever  crowded,  morn  and  noon, 

For  billiard  play. 

The  "Custom  House'1  and  "  Toum  Hotel" 
Remain  for  us  to  state  how  well 

Their  fate  they  bore ; 
And  how  they  stood,  preserved  with  care, 
For  years  the  pride  of '  'Portsmouth  Square, ' ' 

As  gems  of  yore. 

A  few  more  buildings  scattered  round, 
Upon  this  "  Yerba  Buena"  ground, 

Made  up  the  town  ; 

And  near  North  Beach  we  yet  may  find, 
The  last  memento  of  its  kind, 

In  lone  renown/3 


PREAMBLE     III. 


With  a  parting  adieu  to  the  bright 

golden  town, 
And  its  fetes  that  so  endless 

abound ; 
We  embark  on  a  steamer,  whose  name 

and  renown, 

Have  extended  indeed  the 
world  round. 


58  CALIFORNIA. 


For  who  but  remembers  the  " Senator's'1 

fame, 
And  6clat  for  the  fortune 

she  won 
When,  with  crowded  saloon,  and  deck 

too,  the  same, 

She  up  toward  the  gold  region 
run. 

The  harvests  she  gathered  were  bright 

yellow  gold, 
Quite  enriching  her  owners 

indeed ; 
As  o'er  the  broad  basin  she 

gallantly  roll'd, 
And  traversed  the  river 
with  speed. 


CALIFORNIA.  59 


And  now,  though  no  longer  the  river 

she  plies, 
But  o'er  the  blue  waters 

doth  run ; 
Yet  still  her  rich  harvests  continue 

to  rise, 

And  add  to  the  piles  she 
has  won. 

So,  steaming  away,  we  soon  traverse 

the  bar, 
Gliding  on  o'er  the  billows 

so  gay ; 
Till  point  after  point  receding 

afar, 

Brings  us  close  to  the  end  of 
the  day. 


60  CALIFORNIA. 


At  length  the  green  hills  of  Point  Pinos 

appear, 
Rising  up  like  a  cloud  from 

the  deep ; 
And  ere  the  sun  setting,  we  hail 

with  a  cheer, 

Its  blanch  dunes,  where  the  wild 
surges  leap. 


MONTEREY. 


CANTO      III. 


The  pine  clad  hills  of  Monterey, 
Behold  them  in  their  vestment  gay, 

Of  beauty  rare ; 

There  soaring  upward  toward  the  skies, 
In  matchless  grandeur  as  they  rise, 

So  bright  and  fair  ! 

Yet  ah  !  how  sad  to  see  them  harmed, 
And  so  despoiled  of  all  that  charmed 

The  raptured  gaze ; 

When  forests  dense  their  summits  crown' d, 
And  spread  their  foliage  thick  around, 

In  one  dark  maze. 


64  CALIFORNIA. 

Not  e'en  their  beauty  could  them  save, 
Nor  all  the  prayers  true  homage  gave, 

To  have  them  spared  ; 
Nor  threats  of  law,  nor  Lynch  alarm, 
Could  have  effect  to  stay  the  harm 

The  spoiler  dared. 

-«* 

He  hearkened  not,  he  heeded  not, 
But  hewed  away  from  spot  to  spot, 

With  laughing  scorn ; 
Proclaiming  as  he  bent  his  way, 
' '  For  this  our  Government  did  pay 
Ye  Greasers  born  ! ' ' 

And  so,  good  ' '  Uncle  Sam  ' '  became 
A  cloak  for  crime,  though  not  to  blame 

For  such  misdeed ; 

Whilst  here  and  there,  the  squatter,  too, 
Did  chuckling  sneer,  and  pay  his  due, 

With  self-same  plead. 


CALIFORNIA.  65 

In  truth  't  was  thus  throughout  the  State, 
With  waggish  rogues,  who  caught  the  bait, 

As  "  Sam' 's  true  kin  /" 
As  on  they  went,  these  rightful  heirs, 
Whate'er  they  craved,  proclaiming  theirs, 

For  'twas  no  sin. 

But  let  us  leave  this  brigand  scene, 
For  one  more  staid  and  pure,  I  ween, 

Of  days  gone  by  ; 

When  peace  and  plenty  bless' d  the  land, 
And  hearts  content  went  hand  in  hand, 

With  scarce  a  sigh. 

For  in  those  days  it  was  that  came, 
Those  goodly  men  of  pious  fame, 

To  teach  the  way  ; 

When  yet  the  woods  and  hills  around, 
With  wild  beasts'  howl  did  loud  resound, 

Both  night  and  day. 


66  CALIFORNIA. 

When  oft-times  then,  old  grizzly  made 
His  seaside  stroll,  to  dauntless  wade 

Within  the  sea ; 

Or  feast  upon  some  carcass  there, 
Of  stranded  whale,  or  some  such  fare, 

That  there  might  be. 

When  at  noonday  he'  d  plunge  the  wave, 
The  stormy  billows  fierce  to  brave, 

The  old  folks  say  ; 

And  dashing  through  them  gain  the  shore, 
Where  habit  led  him,  oft  before, 

In  quest  of  prey. 

Beyond  these  scenes  we  thus  portray, 
Which  form  the  outskirts  of  the  bay, 

A  ruin  lies  ; 

Of  rough-hewn  stone,  whose  relics  tell 
Its  once  proud  state,  and  also,  well 

The  spot  descries. 


CALIFORNIA.  67 

It  is  a  charming  place,  and  proves 
That  he  who  lived  there  liked  its  groves, 

And  had  good  taste  ; 
For  search  the  region  all  around, 
Another  spot  could  scarce  be  found 

So  truly  chaste. 

'Twas  there  progression  first  appeared. 
That  paved  the  way  which  culture  cheered 

In  after  age ; 

And  many  a  relic  must  decay, 
Ere  all  its  charms  be  swept  away, 

From  Nature's  page. 

The  little  Church,  so  lonely  left, 
Though  now,  by  Time,  of  much  bereft, 

That  gave  it  life  ; 
Yet  proudly  stands  a  monument 
To  those  whose  lives  were  freely  lent 

In  days  of  strife. 


68  CALIFORNIA. 

In  primal  times  a  martial  square 

Did  shield  its  shrine  from  outward  care 

And  hostile  fear  ; 

When  clank  of  arms  and  rolling  drum, 
With  piercing  fife  and  warriors'  hum, 

Gave  constant  cheer. 

For  many  a  Spanish  hero,  then, 
With  half  a  thousand  loyal  men, 

Did  guard  its  walls  ; 
When  scarce  a  day,  but  joy  and  glee, 
Its  hours  would  end,  with  hearts  so  free, 

In  routs  and  balls. 

With  music  too  !  the  light  guitar, 
That  gently  touched,  was  dearer  far, 

By  maiden's  hand ; 
Whose  silvered  voice,  in  alto  clear, 
Revealed  sweet  love  in  strains  most  dear, 

From  Castile's  land. 


CALIFORNIA.  69 

Thus  briskly  time  did  pass  away, 
Forever  free  and  ever  gay, 

With  song  and  dance ; 
For  naught  but  pleasure  then  did  reign, 
Whilst  love  of  home,  and  faith  to  Spain, 

Did  joy  enhance. 

And  though  but  slow  the  town  progressed, 
It  here  and  there,  at  length  possessed 

Some  thriving  spots  ; 
Yet  scattered  so  upon  the  green, 
Their  cosy  huts  were  faintly  seen, 

Like  little  dots. 

But,  strange  to  say,  not  one  betrayed 
The  slightest  taste  for  floral  aid, 

Their  grounds  to  charm  ; 
For  scarce  a  tree  or  shrub  was  there, 
Save  nature's  growth,  that  void  of  care, 

Had  'scaped  from  harm. 


7o  CALIFORNIA. 

And  so  it  was,  till  other  hands 
Had  come  afar,  from  distant  lands, 

These  dearths  to  share  ; 
When  soon  a  thriving  garden  plot, 
Made  bright  each  comer's  homestead  lot, 

With  flowers  rare. 

But  see  where  now  so  sightly  stands 
Yon  rustic  mound,  whose  site  commands 

The  town  and  bay  ; 

Where  once  the  Royal  Standard  waved, 
And  where  bold  valor  fearless  braved, 

The  savage  fray. 

For  'twas  the  fortress  in  its  day, 
Erected  there  to  guard  the  way, 

To  Christian  light  ; 
And  long  it  did  a  shelter  yield, 
To  those  who  then  the  cross  did  wield 

For  ends  so  bright. 


CALIFORNIA.  7 1 

But  more  remote  its  cannon  drove, 
A  private  squadron  from  the  cove,14 

Where  they  would  land  ; 
Repelling  prompt  their  bold  attack, 
With  such  effect  that  forced  them  back, 

To  join  their  band. 

And  though  their  bark  seemed  much  impaired, 
They  put  to  sea,  and  boldly  dared, 

To  risk  the  main  ; 
Full  eager,  too,  to  leave  to  spot, 
Where  pluck  and  skill  had  foiled  their  plot, 

And  hope  for  gain. 

Since  which  grand  feat,  so  val'rous  won, 
Its  rampart  scarce  has  fired  a  gun, 

Save  when  for  sport ; 
Or  sign  to  guide  some  lonely  bark, 
That  sought  at  night,  when  late  and  dark, 

To  gain  the  port. 


72  CALIFORNIA. 

Unless  we  cite  rebellion's  feat, 
When  fierce  incensed  to  warlike  heat 

The  Creole  rose ; 

And  ere  the  town  its  slumbers  raised, 
The  fortress  seized,  and  from  it  blazed 

Upon  their  foes. 

A  spacious  lawn  that  cheers  the  bank, 
Reveals  the  spot  where  many  a  prank 

Full  pleasure  won  ; 
Where  oft  the  merienda  bade 
Both  old  and  young,  of  every  grade, 

To  join  its  fun. 

At  which  they  danced  and  sang  away, 
With  mirthful  glee  and  sportive  play, 

Till  day  had  ceased  ; 
While  not  a  soul  of  social  heart, 
Who  in  the  merry  fete  took  part, 

But  seemed  well  pleased. 


CALIFORNIA.  73 

E'en  now,  as  then,  the  grounds  remain, 
With  many  a  wreck  that  long  hath  lain 

Strewed  o'er  the  shore  ; 
Of  odds  and  ends  of  divers  kind, 
Which  all  so  freely  bring  to  mind, 

Those  freaks  of  yore. 

Bat  ah  !  there's  yet  a  dearer  spot, 
Which  no  true  hearts  hath  yet  forgot, 

That  claims  our  pen  ; 
To  tell  how  there  a  Patriarch 
Doth  lie  entomb' d,  without  a  mark, 

The  place  to  ken. 

It  is  the  one  o'er  yonder  hill, 
Where  many  a  trace  remaineth  still 

Of  auld  lang  syne  ; 
Where  once  the  jolly  Friar  laughed 
With  full  content,  as  pleased  he  quaffed 

His  ruby  wine. 


74  CALIFORNIA. 

This  ancient  site,  or  Mission  post, 
So  long  attractive  on  the  coast, 

Still  holds  its  spell  ; 
For  there  the  sainted  ' '  Serra ' '  lies, IS 
And  many  a  Father,  good  and  wise, 

Of  whom  they  tell  ; 

Whom  oft  historic  pages  praise 
As  men  who  did  their  voices  raise 

In  holy  pride ; 

Whose  works  and  acts  the  critic  ne'er, 
We  hope,  will  dare  to  treat  unfair 

Or  aught  deride. 

Go  ask  the  aged  Creole  now 

How  fared  he,  when,  with  lowly  bow, 

He  craved  their  aid  ; 
And  hear  him  say,  with  downcast  look, 
"Though  richer  now,  P  d  rather  brook 

The  needy  jade  /" 


CALIFORNIA. 


75 


Go  ask  the  voyager  how  he  bore 
The  rugged  pastime  then  on  shore, 

And  hear  his  voice  : 

"  Though  now  there's  comfort  all  around, 
To  have  it,  as  it  then  was  found, 
Would  be  my  choice  !  '  ' 


*^i5^ 


PREAMBLE      IV. 


Resounding  aloud  from  the  hills 

that  arise 
O'er  the  scene  which  encircles 

the  bay, 
Booms  the  peal  of  a  cannon,  whose 

re-echo  dies, 

Like  a  thunder-clap  rolling 
its  way. 


7  8  CALIFORNIA. 


'Tis  the  signal  for  parting  —  our 

labor  is  done  ; 
The  ship's  anchor  hangs  fast  to 

her  side ; 
So  it's  ho  !  for  the  ocean  again 

now  to  run, 

And  on  its  proud  billows 
to  ride. 

Swift  onward  we  journey,  enjoying 

the  night, 
Now  so  placid,  so  gentle 

and  free, 
That  scarce  a  white  ripple  appears 

to  the  sight, 

So  smooth  is  the  beauteous 
sea. 


CALIFORNIA.  79 


When  morning  appears,  we  are  close 

to  the  shore, 
Rolling  swiftly  along,  blithe 

and  gay  ; 
Till  at  length  ' '  Point  Conception ' '  abaft 

us  soon  bore, 
And  its  vision  fast  fading 
away. 

Anon,  we  beheld  o'er  the  caps 

of  the  land, 
That  precede  the  first  glimpse  of 

a  town, 
Two  lofty  church  towers,  whose  aspect, 

so  grand, 

Quite  betokened  a  place  of 
renown. 


8o  CALIFORNIA. 


But  distance,  we  find,  on  arriving, 

had  given 
An  enchantment  indeed  to 

the  view ; 
For,  instead  of  a  city,  with  kirks  to 

enliven, 

E'en  the  houses  were  scattered 
and  few. 


SANTA      BARBARA. 


CANTO    IV. 


Yon  mountain  range  that  soars  on  high,16 
Whose  towering  peaks  salute  the  sky 

In  Alps-like  form ; 

Did  Fremont  pass,  one  darksome  night, 
And  brave  the  dangers  of  its  height 

'Mid  howling  storm. 

When  down  the  bold  and  cragged  steep 
His  gallant  steeds  did  wildly  leap 

O'er  cleft  and  rock  ; 

And  crushed  to  death  were  piled  up  found 
A  frightful  heap  and  ghastly  mound, 

The  sight  to  shock. 


84  CALIFORNIA. 

And  oh  !  what  tales  of  blood  are  told, 
Of  murder  there,  most  foul  and  bold, 

By  villain  done, 

For  vengeance,  or  for  paltry  gain, 
That,  to  recount,  would  render  pain 

To  more  than  one. 

For  many  a  victim  there  doth  lay, 
Now  mould' ring  in  his  home  of  clay, 

Whose  fate  is  hid  ; 
Whilst  here,  within  the  very  town, 
His  slayer  stalks  with  fearless  frown, 

The  crowd  amid. 

Yet  brighter  scenes  the  landscape  shows, 
More  genial,  too,  good  Heaven  knows, 

The  heart  to  cheer ; 
That  bring  to  mind  those  blissful  days, 
Of  by-gone  times  and  guileless  ways, 

To  memory  dear. 


CALIFORNIA.  85 

Behold,  where  yon  lone  Mission  stands, 
Amidst  its  hills  and  rolling  lands, 

So  stately  seen  ; 

Whose  crumbling  relics,  scattered  round, 
Evince  that  once  'twas  thriving  found, 

And  rich  hath  been. 

And  see  its  thrifty  gardens,  too, 
With  flowing  fountains,  pure  as  dew, 

And  works  of  art ; 

And  stony  church,  whose  walls  within, 
So  hang  with  scenes  depicting  sin, 

They  daunt  the  heart. 

Fit  scenes,  indeed,  the  savage  mind 
To  tantalize,  and  firmly  bind 

To  moral  acts ; 

For  clearly  thus,  it  sees  portrayed 
The  end  of  sin,  by  art  displayed, 

Like  glaring  facts. 


86  CALIFORNIA. 

And  now,  behold,  all  bright  to  view, 
The  little  town,  and  fortress,  too, 

Half  hid  by  trees  ; 

With  here  and  there  a  gaysome  spot, 
Of  garden  fair,  or  verdant  plot, 

To  cheer  and  please. 

The  buildings,  few  and  far  between, 
Though  low,  present  a  comely  mien, 

When  seen  aloof; 

Whose  milk-white  walls  made  still  more  fair, 
In  contrast  with  the  ruddy  glare 

Of  each  tiled  roof. 

And  on  the  strand  what  sights  we  see, 
In  rompish  scenes  of  joy  and  glee, 

With  mirthful  play ; 
Where  boatmen  toil  with  jolly  song, 
And  lift  their  voices  loud  and  strong, 

So  blithe  and  gay. 


CALIFORNIA.  87 

Indeed,  'twas  once  a  merry  sight 

To  watch  their  pranks  from  morn  till  night, 

So  full  of  charm  ; 

As  through  the  surf  they  burdens  bore, 
And  placed  them  safe  upon  the  shore, 

E'er  free  from  harm. 


This  busy  spot  the  Indian  sought, 
And  often  here  his  offspring  brought, 

In  days  when  free  ; 
To  brave  the  waves  in  sportive  play, 
Or  boldly  dare,  with  hearts  e'er  gay, 

The  ruffled  sea. 


And  often,  too,  he  would  resort 

To  where  then  stood  the  barrack  fort, 

To  play  at  ball  ; 

And  wager  deep,  to  thus  enhance, 
As  e'er  the  case,  in  games  of  chance, 

The  zeal  of  all. 


88  CALIFORNIA. 


The  barracks  formed  a  spacious  square, 
And  then  a  guard  was  stationed  there, 

To  check  surprise  ; 
For  yet  the  Indian,  wild  and  bold, 
Sought  oftentimes,  we  have  been  told, 

In  vain  to  rise. 


For  records  of  the  Mission  tell 
How  once  he  boldly  did  rebel 

Against  the  Crown ; 
And,  fearless,  sought  to  drive  away 
The  royal  corps  which  then  held  sway 

Within  the  town; 

When  all  the  troop  of  mounted  horse 
Was  prompt  despatched,  in  ample  force, 

And  valiant  led ; 

That  marching  up  the  Mission  hill, 
So  charged,  with  truly  martial  skill, 

The  Indians  fled. 


CALIFORNIA.  89 

Just  then,  howe'er,  in  merry  peals, 
The  Parish  bell  loud  toll'd  for  meals, 

When  ceased  the  fight ; 
And  special  orders  to  retreat 
Were  followed  up  with  zeal  replete 

And  eager  flight. 

The  dinner  o'er,  the  troop  returned, 
To  find  the  Mission  sacked  and  burned, 

And  Indians  gone ; 
And  so  with  this  a  victory  claimed, 
With  ne'er  a  horse  or  soldier  maimed 

Throughout  the  morn. 

In  these  rude  times,  when  fearless  came 
Those  gallant  knights  of  brilliant  fame, 

From  Castile's  lands; 
When  Christian  conquest  yet  was  young, 
And  converts  rare  were 'made  among 

The  savage  bands  — 


9o  CALIFORNIA. 

Came  one,  who  vowed  to  faithful  serve/7 
With  holy  zeal  and  steadfast  nerve, 

The  righteous  cause  ; 
And  ever  constant  to  fulfill 
The  mandate  of  his  monarch's  will, 

His  creed  and  laws. 

Which  vow,  with  firmness  he  observed, 
And  from  it  ne'er  had  even  swerved, 

In  thought  or  way  ; 
And  faithful  to  his  liege  command, 
Amidst  the  trials  of  the  land, 

He  did  not  stray. 

As  chieftain,  friend  or  private  cit. , 
In  grand  concourse,  or  scenes  of  wit, 

His  talent  shone ; 
And  bounteous  to  the  needy  poor, 
To  all  he  gave,'  who  sought  his  door 

Their  wants  to  moan. 


CALIFORNIA.  91 

As  Christian,  sure  the  church  can  claim 
But  few  who  bore  so  fair  a  name 

Within  its  fold  ; 

And  long  her  prayers  will  cease  to  flow 
Ere  she  forgets  to  justly  show 

These  facts  of  old. 

And  as  he  lived,  he  calmly  died, 

His  country's  friend — his  people's  pride, 

And  is  no  more  ; 

Yet  "  GuerrcC  s"  name  shall  lasting  stand, 
A  record  of  his  long-loved  land, 

Till  Time  is  o'er. 

Among  the  isles  that  skirt  the  shore,13 
Was  one  oft  sought  in  days  of  yore 

For  pelts  and  oil ; 

Till  constant  raids  of  hunters  there 
Quite  left  them  stripp'd  and  almost  bare 

Of  all  such  spoil. 


92  CALIFORNIA. 

'T  is  said  that  once  a  feud  they  made, 
And  'gainst  the  native  bared  the  blade 

In  bloody  fight ; 

When  death's  destruction  proved  the  end 
Of  nearly  all  who  would  defend 

Their  homes  and  right. 

Indeed,  the  Russian  Codiack 

An  onslaught  made  that  long  did  rack 

The  public  mind  ; 
As  sadly  told,  the  tidings  went, 
And  o'er  the  wide-spread  world  were  sent 

To  tell  mankind. 


In  modern  times,  some  sportsmen  sought 
This  self-same  spot  for  rural  sport 

And  hunting  cheer  ; 
When,  strolling  o'er  the  dreary  shore, 
They  spied  a  group,  which  fled  before 

With  haste  and  fear. 


CALIFORNIA.  93 

Amazed,  the  sportsmen  gave  it  chase, 
And  followed  up  a  toilsome  race 

Along  the  strand  ; 
Until,  within  a  half-hid  nook, 
The  fugitives  were  overtook, 

And  bade  to  stand. 

One  aged  chief  of  humble  mien, 

With  three  rude  dames,  one,  scarce  sixteen, 

The  group  combined ; 
Who,  crouching  low  upon  the  sand, 
Obeyed  at  once  the  stern  command, 

With  hearts  resigned. 

Their  fears  howe'er  were  quickly  quelled, 
And  dread  of  harm  was  soon  dispelled 

By  change  to  glee ; 
For,  uncontrolled,  they  did  consent 
Their  home  to  leave,  with  heart's  content, 

And  cross  the  sea. 


94  CALIFORNIA. 

So  anxious  now  to  reach  the  main, 
The  party  sought  the  launch  to  gain 

Ere  closed  the  day ; 
But  on  the  way,  as  blithe  they  went, 
The  elder  matron  did  relent 

And  stole  away. 

They  sailed  howe'er,  and  left  her  there 
Alone,  her  gloomy  fate  to  bear, 

Though  'twas  unkind; 
And  rolling  o'er  the  swelling  sea 
Their  little  bark  sped  onward  free 

Before  the  wind. 

Unharmed,  they  passed  the  channel  o'er 
And  reached  e'er  morn,  their  destined  shore, 

San  Pedro  bay; 

When  landed  safe,  upon  the  beach 
They  soon  set  off,  the  town  to  reach 

Without  delay. 


CALIFORNIA.  95 

'T  is  quite  enough  for  us  to  say, 

They  reached  the  town,  and  spent  each  day 

In  festal  glee ; 

But  rash  excess,  and  change  of  fare, 
For  these  rude  dames  so  free  to  share, 

Did  not  agree. 

Alas  !  they  died  and  left  behind 

The  poor  old  chief,  whose  care-worn  mind 

Ne'  er  ceased  to  mourn  ; 
Who,  wandering  sad  from  place  to  place, 
At  length  was  missed,  without  a  trace, 

To  tell  where  gone. 

-As  time  went  by,  he  was  forgot, 
Till  accident  revealed  the  spot 

Beside  the  shore ; 

Where,  crush' d  with  sorrow,  he  had  strayed, 
And  there,  a  maniac,  betrayed 

The  grief  he  bore. 


96  CALIFORNIA. 

Lo  !  there  he  sat  from  day  to  day, 
E'er  gazing  o'er  the  channel  way, 

Perchance  to  gain 

A  glimpse  of  home  beyond  the  sea  — 
Of  that  lone  isle,  where  once  so  free, 

He  lord  did  reign. 

But  fate  decreed  he  never  more, 
Should  know  again  that  cherished  shore 

His  heart  did  crave  ; 
For  on  the  deep  one  morn  was  found 
His  floating  corse,  with  sea-birds  crown' d, 

That  told  his  grave. 

'T  was  thought,  whilst  gazing  on  the  deep, 
Stretch' d  on  the  cliff,  he  went  to  sleep 

Too  near  its  side  ; 

And  dreaming  of  that  long-loved  isle, 
With  on  his  lips  perhaps  a  smile, 

He  fell  and  died. 


CALIFORNIA.  97 

The  end  was  thus  of  poor  "Black  Hawk" 
Of  whom  the  tourists  oft  may  talk, 

And  tell  a  tale  ; 

And  drop  a  tear,  in  memory,  too, 
For  him  and  those  who  e'er  did  rue 

Their  vent'rous  sail. 

Some  eighteen  years  had  rolled  away, 
Since  that  eventful,  doleful  day 

We  here  recall ; 

When  she,  who  on  the  isle  remained, 
Was  hither  brought,  and  entertained 

With  warmth  by  all. 

The  change,  howe'er  its  mischief  wrought, 
And  soon  'twas  known  she  here  was  brought 

To  sink  and  die ; 

For  human  kindness  could  not  save 
This  lone  and  last  one  from  the  grave 

Where  she  doth  lie. 


PREAMBLE    V. 


With  a  parting  salute,  we  are  soon 

underway, 
O'er  the  ocean  again,  now 

to  roam ; 
Where  its  frolicsome  billows  unceasingly 

play, 

As  they  scatter  around  us 
their  foam. 


ioo  CALIFORNIA. 


And  as  we  steam  onward,  we  view 

with  delight, 
Where  the  mountains  recede  from 

the  shore, 
The  evergreen  gardens  fresh,  blooming 

and  bright, 

With  their  little  blanch'  d  cabins 
before. 

'Tis  "La  Carpenteria"  and  the  famous 

"  Rincon" 
Both  a  nice  little  drive  from 

the  town ; 
Where  many  a  fete  hath  imparted 

a  tone, 

And  success  to  their  name  and 
renown. 


CALIFORNIA.  101 


So  that  parties  oft  visit  their  shores 

to  obtain 
When  the  waters  flow  back  from 

the  land, 
A  repast  from  the  mussels  its  shallows 

contain, 

And  that  cling  to  the  rocks  on 
the  sand. 


A  few  leagues  beyond  this,  we  see 

near  the  shore, 
What  remains  of  a  once  thrifty 

Mission ; 
Disclosing  now  ruins,  where  grand 

structures  before, 
Paraded  in  fine 
exhibition. 


102  CALIFORNIA. 


Alas  !  all  such  stations  are  fading 

away, 
As  their  wealth  and  their  power 

have  gone ; 
And  sad  is  the  picture  their  relics 

portray, 

Now  crumbling  to  dust,  and 
forlorn. 


On  our  right  stands  the  island  called 

"  Anacapap" 
A  mere  cluster  of  rocks,  and 

no  more ; 
Where  the  "Scott"  laid  her  timbers,  within 

a  deep  gap, 

As  she  went  with  a  crash  on 
the  shore. 


CALIFORNIA.  103 


Anon,  like  a  cloud,  rising  up 

from  the  mist, 
Far  away  in  the  distance 

appear, 
San  Pedro's  rude  hillocks,  whose  features 

enlist 

A  distrust  in  their  shelter 
and  cheer. 

But  gliding  along  we  soon  enter 

the  bay, 
Running  close  within  hail  of 

the  land, 
And  ere  the  ship's  anchor  rests  fast 

in  the  clay, 

Her  freight  agent  from  shore,  is 
on  hand. 


io4  CALIFORNIA. 


Who,  ever  efficient,  is  ever 

prepared 
For  his  patrons,  whenever 

they  call ; 
And  his  coaches  are  decent  and  nicely 

repaired, 

With  comfort  and  roomage 
for  all. 

So,  taking  our  leave  of  the  captain, 

we  pass 
To  the  lighter,  which  takes  us 

away ; 
Yet  not,  till  together,  we  join 

in  a  glass, 

And  first  drink  to  his  health,  as 
they  say. 


CALIFORNIA.  105 


For  who  did  not  fancy  Tom  Seely 

as  skip, 
Or  as  friend  and  companion 

on  shore ; 
For  a  more  genial  sailor  ne'er  handled 

a  ship, 

Nor  traversed  the  ocean 
before. 

At  length,  having  landed,  we  scale 

the  bluff- way, 
Excavated  adroitly  with 

care; 
When  a  Postal  politely  invites 

us  to  pay 

At  a  station,  near  by,  the 
coach  fare. 


106  CALIFORNIA. 


But  time  will  permit  us  without 

much  delay, 
A  slight  glance  at  the  neighboring 

shore ; 
So  we'll  glean  what  we  can  of  its  charms, 

while  we  may, 
To  append  to  the  Past,  as 
before. 


SAN     PEDRO. 


CANTO    V. 


Lone,  cheerless  spot,  and  desert  shore, 
Where  surges  roll,  and  ceaseless  roar, 

So  dull  and  drear ; 

Whose  hills  reach  far  beyond  the  sight, 
Till  fading,  like  the  evening  light, 

They  disappear. 

Lo  !  there  San  Juan's  tall  peaks  arise, 
Upheaving  toward  the  lofty  skies, 

And  crown'  d  with  snow  ; 
Whilst  prairies  green  that  intervene, 
Make  up  the  grandeur  of  the  scene, 

Which  lies  below. 


[io  CALIFORNIA. 

The  time  was  once,  when  o'er  this  space, 
Like  little  dots,  the  eye  might  trace, 

O'er  vale  and  mound 
The  countless  herds  of  grazing  stock, 
Upon  a  soil,  where  ne'er  a  rock 

Disturbed  the  ground. 

And  roaming  wild,  might  then  be  seen, 
In  playful  mood,  and  lively  mien, 

The  gallant  steed ; 

Who,  o'er  the  plains  would  swiftly  bound, 
And  sniff  the  air,  as  o'er  the  ground 

He  pranced  with  speed. 

And  then  the  creek  within  the  bay, 
A  sight  revealed,  from  day  to  day, 

The  eye  to  please  ; 
Of  drowsy  seals,  in  scattered  bands, 
Whose  thousands  basked  upon  the  sands 

In  tranquil  ease. 


CALIFORNIA.  1 1 1 

A  rugged  ridge  called  "  Dead  Man's  Isle," 
Was  oft  the  spot  where  they  did  pile 

E'  en  to  its  top  ; 

And  lying  there,  stretched  in  the  sun, 
Till  thorough  dried,  they  one  by  one 

Would  downward  drop. 

When  quite  alive  would  be  the  sea, 
As  round  the  isle  unchecked  and  free 

They  sportive  bayed  ; 
Whose  barking  sounds  did  loud  resound 
Within  the  Port,  for  miles  around, 

As  there  they  played. 

For  then,  as  monarchs  of  the  bay, 
These  creatures  held  unbroken  sway 

With  naught  to  fear  ; 
Till  came  a  roving,  murd'rous  band, 
Whose  galley,  coasting  near  the  land, 

Sought  shelter  here. 


UNIVERSITY 


ii2  CALIFORNIA. 

When  fierce  destruction  then  began, 
That  ended  not  till  savage  man 

Had  laid  them  waste  ; 
And  now  't  is  rare  that  one  appears, 
Unless  compelled  by  modern  fears 

From  harm  to  haste. 

At  length  some  zealous  trader  sought 
To  barter  here,  the  goods  he  brought 

With  wonted  cheer  ; 
And  oped  a  trade  for  after  age 
To  follow  up,  and  duly  wage 

From  year  to  year. 

For  then  throughout  this  far-famed  coast 
San  Pedro's  Port  could  proudly  boast 

The  largest  trade  ; 
And  greatest  share  of  exports,  too  , 
Of  hides  and  pelts,  with  furs  a  few, 

That  then  were  made. 


PREAMBLE     VI. 


Now  the  coaches  were  waiting  for 

orders  to  start, 
With  their  horses  quite  prancing 

and  gay  ; 
So  we  scarcely  get  seated,  ere  bounding 

we  part 

And  are  racing  along  the 
highway. 


ii4  CALIFORNIA. 


The  reason  for  haste  is,  the  public 

well  know, 
They  're  running  a  strong 

competition  ; 
And  speed  is  their  maxim,  wherever 

they  go, 

To  outrival  and  beat 
opposition. 

So  fleet  do  we  travel,  we  soon 

reach  the  plains, 
More  or  less  than  ten  leagues  from 

the  sea ; 
When  the  distance  before  us  most  cheerfully 

wanes, 

As  we  chit-chat  so  friendly 
and  free. 


CALIFORNIA.  115 


A  loquacious  gent,  half  reclined 

on  his  seat, 
Ever  anxious  the  Yankees 

to  bore, 
Related  the  tale  of  an  ill-timed 

retreat, 

Which  occurred  in  the  Mexican 
War. 

'  T  was  the  one  that  recounts  how  the 

Yankees,  one  day, 
In  their  zeal  and  fresh  hope  for 

renown, 
From  their  war-ship  fierce  landed  in  battle 

array, 

And  set  off  to  lay  siege  to 
the  town. 


n6  CALIFORNIA. 


Their  forces,  he  told  us,  were  met 

on  the  way, 
By  a  squadron  of  native 

dragoons, 
Who,  well  mounted  on  chargers  both 

prancing  and  gay, 
Were  advancing  in  gallant 
platoons. 

A  little  brass  cannon  much  glory 

did  gain 
As  it  mowed  down  the  ranks  of 

their  foe ; 
And  forced  it  to  turn  and  fall  back 

on  the  plain 
Far  away  from  disaster 
and  woe. 


CALIFORNIA.  1 1 7 


The  gist  of  the  tale  is,  when  the 

Yankees  retired, 
In  disordered  retreat  from 

the  field  ; 
The  natives  down-hearted,  their  last 

shot  had  fired, 
And  were  only  just  ready 
to  yield. 

The  story  so  given,  spread  laughter 

around, 
As  the  gent  it  with  mirth  did 

unfold ; 
And  we  thought,  if  'twere  truthful,  it 

certainly  crown' d 
All  the  feats  of  the  war  that 
are  told. 


n8  CALIFORNIA. 


Had  the  Yankees  continued  their  march 

for  the  town, 
Without  care  for  any 

collision, 
They  might  have  succeeded  and  gained 

a  renown, 

Instead  of  this  slur  of 
derision. 

Ascending  a  rising,  distinctly 

we  saw, 
For  some  leagues  the  fine  country 

around, 
With  its  lofty  dark  mountains  that  shoot 

up  before, 

And  its  prairies  where  cattle 
abound. 


CALIFORNIA.  119 


A  glimpse,  too,  we  had,  of  the  nice 

little  town, 
Though  partially  hid  by 

the  trees, 

Where  its  gardens  and  vineyards  of  well- 
known  renown, 
So  adorn  it,  and  charmingly 
please. 

The  summit  descended,  we  race 

o'er  the  ground, 
Now  so  level  and  smooth  as 

it  lay ; 
On  each  side  the  bright  flowers,  fresh 

blooming  around, 
Adding  charm  to  the  scenes  on 
the  way. 


120  CALIFORNIA. 


In  the  Spring  of  the  year  the  whole  country 

abounds 
In  its  flowers,  the  choicest 

of  hue, 
When  scarce  then  a  spot  can  be  found 

o'er  its  grounds, 
But  a  garden  presents  to 
to  the  view. 


A  short  distance  further,  brings  us  safe 

into  town, 
Where  we  halt  at  the  house  of 

a  friend, 
And  alighting,  rejoice,  as  we  quickly 

leap  down, 

That  we've  got  to  our  long  journey's 
end. 


LOS     ANGELES. 


CANTO      VI. 


"  El  Pueblo  de  los  Angeles,'' 
Indeed  the  town  of  Angels  is, 

Of  beauty  rare ; 

And  t'  is  a  spot  that  gives  delight, 
That  fills  the  soul  with  rapture  bright 

And  visions  fair  ! 

Its  walks,  its  rides,  its  hills  and  dales, 
Its  grassy  plains,  and  fertile  vales, 

With  flowers  bloom, 

Whose  blossoms  bright,  sweet  odors  rise, 
And  fragrant  greet  the  fost'ring  skies 

In  rich  perfume. 


i24  CALIFORNIA. 

What  joy  !  what  gay  content  was  here, 
With  scenes  so  chaste,  and  charms  so  dear, 

'  Mong  hearts  so  free  ; 
When  irksome  toil,  and  gloomy  care 
Gave  place  to  pleasure  everywhere 

In  mirth  and  glee  ! 

With  homes  thus  blest,  their  wants  were  few, 
Of  things  abroad,  they  scarcely  knew, 

Or  gave  a  thought ; 
But  well  content  with  what  they  had, 
They  ask'd  no  more  their  hearts  to  glad, 

Nor  wished  for  aught. 

For  with  a  clime  so  soft  and  mild 
They  lived  along,  from  care  beguiled, 

In  constant  health ; 
Their  grazing  flocks  on  every  side. 
Enhancing  e'er  their  worldly  pride, 

And  source  of  wealth. 


CALIFORNIA.  125 

Thus  time  went  by,  from  day  to  day, 
In  social  sport  and  constant  play, 

With  song  and  dance  ; 
From  twilight  eve  'till  early  dawn, 
Within  the  cot,  or  on  the  lawn, 

In  blissful  trance. 


And  on  some  special  gala  day, 
Then  hundreds  came  from  far  away 

To  join  its  cheer  ; 

When  old  and  young  would,  mounted,  dare 
To  taunt  the  bull,  or  savage  bear, 

Devoid  of  fear. 


So,  deck'  d  in  all  their  gayest  pride, 
Each  horseman  bold  did  gallant  ride 

With  dext'rous  skill; 
And  there  before  his  love  display 
Such  feats  that  naught  could  him  repay, 

Save  her  good-will. 


26  CALIFORNIA. 

But  woe  to  him,  from  his  adored 
If  by  mischance  his  horse  got  gored, 

Or  he  got  thrown  ; 
For  either  fault  would  quite  suffice 
To  cause  dismissal  in  a  trice 

With  scornful  frown. 

'Twas  rare  howe'er,  or  scarce  was  heard, 
That  such  mishap  had  e'er  occurred 

To  man  or  horse  ; 

For  o'er  the  world  from  East  to  West, 
As  riders  they  were  deemed  the  best, 

On  turf  or  course. 

The  children,  too,  could  famous  ride, 
And  three  or  four  would  sometimes  stride 

A  gallant  steed ; 

The  youngest  in  the  middle  placed, 
When  o'er  the  town  they  wildly  raced, 

With  scarce  a  heed. 


CALIFORNIA.  127 

But  ah  !  alas,  such  times  have  fled, 

And  though  grand  wealth  now  reigns  instead 

To  comfort  life ; 

Yet,  with  the  change,  untimely  came 
A  host  of  rogues,  whose  vicious  fame 

Brought  constant  strife. 

For  here  they  found  a  home  for  vice 
Wherein  to  sow  with  cards  and  dice 

Their  venomed  deeds  ; 
Among  a  race  who  rude  withal 
Too  easy  bent  to  mischief's  call 

And  grasped  its  seeds. 

But  later,  theft  and  murder  came, 
Both  followed  up  with  equal  fame 

From  time  to  time  ; 
Till  scarce  a  day,  but  three  or  four 
Were  murdered  found,  and  sometimes  more, 

By  growth  of  crime. 


128  CALIFORNIA. 

For  such  a  vile  and  noxious  set 
Of  midnight  thieves,  was  never  met 

The  world  around ; 

And  cut-throats,  too,  who  dealt  in  blood, 
Whose  fiendish  acts,  alas,  did  flood 

And  steep  the  ground. 

They  were  "  Sonera's"  vilest  fruits, 
And  direst  pests,  that,  like  fierce  brutes, 

On  blood  would  feast ; 
Whose  dreadful  crimes  have  scarcely  left 
A  home  extant,  that's  not  bereft 

Of  friends,  at  least. 

But,  as  the  time  at  length  progressed, 
Such  fiendish  acts  were  prompt  suppressed 

By  strength  of  arm  ; 
When  "Sonorensic"  malice  fled 
And  left  its  haunts  with  anxious  dread 

And  wild  alarm. 


CALIFORNIA.  129 

Since  which  these  lands,  thus  purg'd  of  crime, 
Have  merit  gained  from  time  to  time 

As  culture  came ; 

And  now,  indeed,  for  leagues  around, 
With  labor  rife,  are  thriving  found 

And  have  great  fame. 

Far  o'er  the  hills,  we  may  behold, 
Still  central  in  its  open  wold 

A  remnant  yet 

Of  olden  time,  whose  blighted  fame 
And  sad  decline  must  surely  claim 

The  world's  regret. 

For  there  once  stood  a  grand  domain  I9 
Within  its  wide-spread  fertile  plain 

Like  some  proud  queen  ; 
With  garden  groves  and  vineyards  fair 
Whose  varied  fruits,  both  choice  and  rare, 

Were  charming  seen. 


1 3o  CALIFORNIA. 

But  like  its  consorts  in  the  State, 
She  too,  has  shared  the  grievous  fate 

They  sadly  bore  ; 
And  thus  her  Indian  convert  here, 
Compelled  by  want  to  disappear, 

Is  seen  no  more. 

An  index  sad,  of  modern  days, 
Which  serves  to  prove  in  many  ways 

The  maxim  true ; 

That  where  the  Saxon  foot  doth  go, 
It  carries  with  it  waste  and  woe 

For  them  to  rue. 


But  ah!  indeed,  'tis  Nature's  course 
The  ever-certain,  willful  source 

Whence  comes  the  blow ; 
And  is  the  destined  fate  they  bear 
Which  human  aid  can  ne'er  repair 

Nor  stay  its  woe. 


CALIFORNIA.  131 

For  culture  must  enforce  its  way, 
With  onward  march  from  day  to  day 

Where  rudeness  lies ; 
And  so  the  Red  Man,  here  to-day, 
To  modern  progress  must  give  way, 

Though  thus  he  dies  ! 


PREAMBLE      VII. 


But  let  us  return  to  the  town's 

merry  haunts 
And  its  scenes  ever  happy 

and  gay ; 
Where  there's  comfort  and  pastime  to 

gladden  the  wants 
Of  the  trav'ler  who  ventures 
this  way. 


i34  CALIFORNIA. 


Beside  the  bright  eye  of  the  native 

brunette, 
That  out-dazzles  the  gems  she 

may  wear, 
There  is  love  in  the  Pike's  to  tease 

and  to  fret, 

And  a  mildness  to  soften 
dull  care. 

There  are  vineyards  and  orchards  and 

gardens  and  fields 
That  embellish  the  village 

around ; 
With  the  sweetest  of  grape  that  abundantly 

yields 

And  other  choice  fruits  that 
abound. 


CALIFORNIA.  135 


The  roads  through  the  suburbs  are 

charming  indeed, 
With  their  little  scant  streams  on 

each  side, 
Where  the  bright  verdant  hedges  though 

covered  with  weed, 
Add  much  to  their  fame  far 
and  wide. 

The  country  surrounding  has  greatly 

progressed, 
Giving  life  to  its  precincts 

around ; 
And  the  Mormon  intrusion,  so  lately 

suppressed 

Doth  now  with  attraction 
abound. 


136  CALIFORNIA. 


There's  the  range  of   Santana,   and  vale 

of  San  Juan, 
Far  away  from  the  skirts  of 

the  town, 
So  thriving  with  plenty,  they  must 

be  anon 

Grand  places  of  wealth  and 
renown. 

In  fact,  the  whole  country  is  blessed 

with  success, 
And  its  people  are  happy 

and  gay, 
For,  without  molestations  to  grieve 

and  oppress, 

They  have  nothing  to  hamper 
their  way. 


CALIFORNIA.  137 


So  thus  we  will  leave  them  and  haste 

to  the  strand, 
Once  again  to  resume  from 

the  sea 
A  view  of  the  sights  which  encompass 

the  land 

And  give  vim  to  their  charms,  gay 
and  free. 

Suffice  it,  that  safe  we  arrive 

at  the  bay, 
Where  the  steamer  lies  ready 

to  part  ; 
So  quickly  embarking*,  we  are  prompt 

under  way, 

With  a  speed  that  gives  joy  to 
the  heart. 


138  CALIFORNIA. 


For  soon,  the  bold  bluff  of  ' '  Point 

Loma ' '  appears, 
As  the  hill  of  "  San  Pedro" 

grows  dim, 
With  the  coast  line  so  near  us,  that 

often  with  cheers, 
We  are  hailed  by  the  groups  on 
its  brim. 

These  greetings  so  cheerful,  were  all 

that  we  met, 
To  attract  and  divert  on 

the  way  ; 
And  yet  their  dull  sameness  gave  naught 

to  regret, 

For  with  music,  we  pass'd  off 
the  day. 


CALIFORNIA.  139 


At  length  a  bell  warned  us  of  something 

at  hand, 
And  the  steamer  soon  slackened 

her  way  ; 
So  we  hied  to  the  deck,  whence  we  saw 

'twas  the  land, 

Whose  surroundings  we  came  to 
survey. 


SAN     DIEGO. 


CANTO    VII. 


All  hail,  most  blest  and  sacred  spot,20 
On  which  it  was  famed  Serra's  lot, 

Rome's  cross  to  raise  ; 
And  on  a  lonesome,  dreary  strand, 
To  consecrate,  with  hallowed  hand, 

The  Host  we  praise  ! 

For  there,  his  first  "Grand  Mass  "  was  said, 
In  offering  to  the  great  God-head, 

His  work  to  bless, 
That  by  God's  holy  will  decreed 
The  Christian  conquest  might  proceed 

With  true  success. 


i44  CALIFORNIA. 

And  there  it  was,  he  first  began 
To  soothe  the  ways  of  Pagan  man, 

A  savage  race  ; 

Yet  ah  !  what  dangers  did  he  dare 
Their  hearts  to  tame,  so  they  might  share 

The  convert's  grace. 

What  wants,  what  cares  and  risks  he  bore  ! 
An  exile  to  this  heathen  shore 

Where  darkness  lay  ; 
With  naught  to  cheer  or  charm  the  mind, 
Nor  e'en  a  shelter  from  the  wind, 

To  smooth  his  way. 

And  yet,  withal,  he  faltered  not, 
But  with  a  will  that's  not  forgot, 

Urged  on  his  way  ; 

By  smiles  and  gifts  and  friendly  bribes, 
That  gained  him  ground  among  the  tribes 

From  day  to  day. 


CALIFORNIA.  145 

Till,  by  degrees,  his  station  grew, 
As  eager  round  it,  converts  drew 

To  join  his  creed  ; 

And  with  it  learn,  though  rudely  taught, 
Such  useful  arts,  as  he  best  thought 

They  most  did  need. 

By  which  their  huts  were  better  framed, 
Their  lands  were  tilled  and  flocks  were  tamed 

O'er  vale  and  hill ; 
And  many  a  fabric  yet  doth  stand 
A  leading  wonder  in  the  land 

To  prove  their  skill. 

As  time  elapsed  and  years  passed  o'er, 
At  length  arose  upon  the  shore 

A  little  town  ; 

Whose  modest  structures  scattered  round 
Were  sheltered  'neath  a  fortress  mound 

Of  old  renown. 


146  CALIFORNIA. 

And  one,  the  most  imposing  seen,'1 
Of  plain  design  and  humble  mien, 

We  will  portray  ; 

For  there  a  wealthy  Don  did  dwell 
Whose  heart,  the  living  town  can  tell, 

Was  kind  and  gay. 

Where  scarce  a  night,  but  dance  and  song 
The  fleeting  hours  did  chase  along 

In  mirth  and  glee  ; 

When  old  and  young,  from  far  and  wide, 
E'er  gathered  round,  on  every  side, 

The  sport  to  see. 

For  always  free  these  pastimes  were 
To  rich  and  poor,  who  chose  to  share 

The  social  call  ; 

When  gaily  dressed,  both  prompt  would  hie 
Each  other's  grace  and  charms  to  vie 

At  every  ball. 


CALIFORNIA.  147 

And  there  would  grace  and  beauty  meet 
Their  nets  to  spread,  some  swain  to  cheat 

Whose  heart  was  bland  ; 
And  gaily  lead  him  on  to  love, 
As  round  the  hall  they  brisk  did  move, 

Joined  hand  in  hand. 

But  of  the  beauty  then  in  town, 

None  could  compare,  we  sure  must  own, 

Throughout  the  land, 

With  that  which  graced  our  friend's  domain, 
Whose  gentle  sweetness  e'er  did  gain 

All  hearts  command. 


And  who  that  now  recalls  those  nights, 
Those  ever-charming,  joyous  sights, 

The  peasants'  balm, — 
But  feels  a  sadness  on  his  brow, 
That  such  delights  no  longer  now 

Are  here  to  charm. 


148  CALIFORNIA. 

They  have  dispersed  !  A  stranger's  sway 
Such  rural  treats  has  swept  away 

And  left  behind 

A  blank  instead,  with  naught  to  please, 
A  gloomy  scene,  to  chill  and  freeze 

The  gaysome  mind. 

Two  humble  dwellings,  side  by  side22 
That  stood  for  years  the  village  pride 

Are  standing  now, 
In  which  two  gallant  sailors  dwelt 
Whose  hearts  in  friendship  ever  felt 

A  kindred  glow. 

Like  brothers  they  were  bound  in  love, 
And  in  their  acts  each  zealous  strove 

His  love  to  vie, 

That  bated  not,  nor  even  waived 
Through  all  the  changes  they  had  braved 

Till  both  did  die. 


CALIFORNIA.  149 

And  as  they  lived,  so  since  they  died 
They  have  been  neighbors  side  by  side, 

And  tenants  are 

Within  a  ruin'd  church-yard  laid 
Where  many  a  kith  and  kin  have  strayed 

To  lisp  a  prayer. 

Two  simple  slabs,  their  names  impart 
That  tell  the  day  they  did  depart 

This  world's  career  ; 
And  he  who  stops  to  read  the  fact 
Will  breathe  a  sigh  while  in  the  act, 

And  drop  a  tear. 

Not  far  beyond,  upon  a  green, 
A  simple  structure  may  be  seen, 

With  latticed  fence, 
Where  lie  reposed,  those  valiant  men 
Who  lost  their  lives  within  a  glen 

Some  leagues  from  hence. 


150  CALIFORNIA. 

Poor  victims  of  an  oversight 

Which  history  claims  as  something  bright 

And  worthy  fame, 

Though  here  'twas  deemed  a  foul  defeat, 
And  caused  by  leaders  incomplete, 

Who  were  to  blame. 

At  least,  'tis  said  by  those  who  know 
That  ere  was  struck  the  fatal  blow, 

Had  order  reigned, 

The  battle  lost,  might  have  been  won, 
And  they,  the  victors,  made  to  run 

The  field  so  stained. 


But  let  this  pass  !    Come  view  the  strand 
On  which  the  Pioneers  did  land 

In  days  of  yore  ; 

That  modern  progress  scarce  has  changed 
In  aught  that  then  around  it  ranged 

And  cheered  the  shore. 


CALIFORNIA.  151 

A  row  of  wooden  shanties  stand 
Upon  the  margin  of  the  land 

Along  the  beach  ; 

Where  here  and  there,  some  launch  or  hulk 
Makes  up  the  vision  seen  in  bulk, 

Within  our  reach. 

'Twas  here  the  early  trader  brought 
The  produce  he  with  patience  sought 

From  mart  to  mart, 
That  long  lay  stored  with  zealous  care, 
Until  for  home  he  did  prepare. 

With  gladsome  heart. 

Then  truly  'twas  a  busy  sight 

To  see  the  strand  from  morn  till  night 

Alive  with  cheer  ! 

For  when  a  ship  was  homeward  bound, 
What  merry  shouts  did  then  resound 

Afar  and  near  ! 


152  CALIFORNIA. 

Beyond  these  sights  we  thus  portray 
A  rustic  fort  preserves  the  bay 

Secure  and  free, 

From  outward  foes  and  contraband, 
That  oftentimes  disturb  the  land 

And  neighboring  sea. 

And  so  with  this  the  past  is  told — 
Whose  early  days  and  times  of  gold 

Have  had  their  charm; 
Yet  ere  we  part  we  fain  would  crave 
The  Critic's  friendly  aid  to  save 

Our  Muse  from  harm. 


NOTES. 


(1)  The  rivers  of  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  whose  twin- 
like  streams,  side  by  side,  uniting  at  their  mouths,  created 
Suisun  Bay,  and  passing  through  the  Straits  of  Carquinez  into 
the  magnificent  basin  of  San  Pablo  formed  a  copartnership 
with  that  of  San  Francisco,  and  finally  passed  out  through  the 
Golden  Gate  into  the  deep  bosom  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.    It  has 
been  said  by  the  early  historical  writers  that  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco  originally  extended  far  south  over  the  valley  of  San 
Jose  toward  the  Tulares,  hence  the  legend  of  the  aborigines 
describing  a  lake  of  grand  dimensions,  whose  waters  escaped 
through  an  opening  created  by  some  unknown  revulsion  of 
nature. 

(2)  The  writer  alludes  to  that  band  of  holy  missionaries, 
headed  by  their  venerated  president,  Friar  Junipero   Serra, 
who,  under  the  auspices  and  protection  of  the  Spanish  Govern 
ment,  in  1775,  commenced  their  great  work  of  Christianizing 
and  civilizing  the  numerous  tribes  of  Indians  then  inhabiting 
the  northern  portion  of  California,— that  is,  from  San  Diego 
north — at  this  period  a  region  almost  entirely  unknown  to  the 
civilized  world. 

(3)  Foreign  trade  was  almost  exclusively  American,  con 
fined  to  trading  ships  from  Boston,  Mass.,  principally  by  the 
mercantile  houses  of  Bryant  &  Sturgis  and  William  Apple- 
ton  &  Co.,  who,  for  twenty  years,  engrossed  the  entire  trade, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  outside  adventurers,  with  an  occa 
sional  ship,  also,  from  Lima,  and  now  and  then  an  expedition 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

(4)  General  John  A.  Sutter,  a  Swiss   gentleman,    came  to 
this  country  in  1839,  and  soon  after  his  arrival,  by  permission 


154  CALIFORNIA. 


of  the  local  authorities  at  Monterey,  he  established  a  trading 
post  not  far  from  the  present  city  of  Sacramento,  which  served 
as  a  kind  of  frontier  protection  to  the  newly  acquired  ranchos 
of  the  north,  which  had  suffered  much  from  depredations  of 
the  unfriendly  Indians.  By  his  activity  and  good  manage 
ment  he  drew  around  him  a  sufficient  force  of  the  friendly 
natives  to  enable  him  to  erect  his  grand  stronghold,  called 
Suiter's  Fort,  which  held  quite  a  formidable  position  at  the 
commencement  of  the  war  between  Mexico  and  the  United 
States.  At  this  period  he  made  himself  serviceable  on  many 
occasions  to  the  United  States  Government,  which  was  duly 
acknowledged  by  the  authorities  in  Washington. 

(5)  The  war  alluded  to  was  the  one  between  Mexico  and  the 
United  States,  which  culminated  by  the  acquisition  and  annex 
ation  of  California  to  the  latter,  by  right  of   conquest  and 
purchase. 

(6)  It  was  the  wide-famed  Vigilance  Committee,  so  talked 
of,  pro  and  con,  whose  acts,  though  illegal,  were  successful  in 
ridding  the  land  of  a  pest  of  scoundrels  and  villains  who  in 
fested  it  and  bade  defiance  to  its  laws  and  authorities. 

(7)  The  residence  of  Jacob  P.  Leese,  who  came  to  this  coun 
try  overland,  via  New  Mexico,  and  reached  Los  Angeles  De 
cember,  1833,  where  he  took  up  his  residence  for  a  short  time, 
and  then  proceeded  north  to  San  Francisco,  where  he  married 
Miss  Rosalia  Vallejo.    After  the  change  of  government,  in 
1849,  he  went  to  Monterey,  since  which  his  family  has  made 
that  place  its  permanent  home. 

(8)  Captain  William  A.  LeidesdorfF  came  to  this  country  as 
Master  of  the  schooner  Juliana,  owned  by  John  Coffin  Jones, 
Esq.,  a  resident  of  Santa  Barbara,  and  reached  here  in  June, 
1841.    Some  time  afterward  he  resigned  his  commission  and 
took  up  his  residence  in  San  Francisco,  where  he  remained 
until  his  death,  in  1848. 

(9)  William  D.  M.  Howard  arrived  here  in  1839  on  board  the 
ship  California  (Captain  Arthur),  and  soon  after,  by  permis 
sion,  he  left  the  ship  at  San  Pedro  and  took  up  his  residence 


CALIFORNIA.  155 

with  Don  Abel  Stearns,  then  a  merchant  in  Los  Angeles.  He 
went  home  to  the  United  States,  via  Mexico,  in  1840,  and  re 
turned  again  to  this  coast  in  1842  as  assistant  supercargo  with 
Captain  Arthur  on  board  the  ship  California,  under  the  patron 
age  of  the  house  of  B.  T.  Read  &  Co.,  of  Boston.  He  con 
tinued  to  receive  occasional  consignments  for  several  years 
from  his  friends  in  Boston,  making  San  Francisco  his  head 
quarters,  when,  in  1849,  he  made  a  visit  East  to  his  native  land, 
where  he  became  sick,  and  soon  returned  to  California  to  die 
iu  his  princely  residence  at  San  Mateo,  and  was  buried  in  the 
little  stone  chapel  to  which  he  had  so  liberally  contributed 
toward  its  construction. 

(10)  William  H.  Aspinwall,  who  was  the  first  to  introduce 
steam  navigation  on  the  Northern  Pacific  Coast,  having  con 
tracted  with  the  Government  at  Washington  for  the  trans 
portation  of   the  U.  S.  mail  across  the  Isthmus  of    Panama, 
thence  by  water  to  San  Francisco  by  a  line  of  steamers,  the 
first  of  which,  the  California,  reached  her  destination  in  Feb 
ruary,  1849. 

(11)  Nathan  Spear  first  visited  this  coast  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands  in  1823,  and  some  years  afterward  he  came  to  Monterey, 
where  he  remained  but  a  short  time,  and  then  proceeded  to  San 
Francisco,  where  he  located  permanently.    His  place  of  busi 
ness  was  on  the  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Clay  streets. 

(12)  John  Vioget  came  to  this  country  in  1837  and  located  in 
San  Francisco,  where  he  kept  a  billiard  and  drinking  saloon 
on  Clay  street,   about  half  way  between    Montgomery  and 
Kearny  streets.     He  was  a  surveyor  by  profession,  and  laid 
out  the  original  plan  of  San  Francisco,  extending  to  Market 
street.    He  was  from  one  of  the  old  towns  in  Switzerland, 
which  probably  accounts  for  the  narrow  and  contracted  char 
acter  of  many  of  the  streets  so  common  here. 

(13)  This  was  the  residence  of  La  Seriora  Briones,  who,  in 
olden  times,  as  a  favor  did  all  the  washing  required  by  the 
numerous  vessels  that  visited  la  Yerba  Buena,  for  which,  at 
that  period,  the  now  called  North  Beach  bore  the  cognomen  of 
"  Washerwoman's  Bay." 


i56  CALIFORNIA. 


(14)  This  was  a  patriot  vessel-of-war,  under  command  of  one 
Buchard,  who,  after  his  departure  from  Monterey,  proceeded 
southward  and  anchored  off  the  Refugio  Rancho,  located  about 
half  way  between  Point  Concepcion  and  the  Presidio  of  Santa 
Barbara,  where  a  force  landed  and  destroyed  almost  entirely 
the  little  settlement  which  they  found  there,  and  then  contin 
ued  on  their  course  south,  until  they  reached  La  Mission  de  San 
Juan  Capistrano.    Here  they  disembarked  a  force  which,  after 
ransacking  and  damaging  to  some  considerable  extent,  and 
consuming  the  wine  and  little  niceties  of  the  old  Friars,  they  re 
turned  to  their  ship  in  good  time  to  escape  being  made  prison 
ers  by  an  armed  force,  which  had  been  sent  up  from   San 
Diego  to  protect  the  Mission. 

(15)  Padre  Junipero  Serra,  President  of  the  Missionary  De 
partment,  who  died  in  Monterey  and  was  buried  at  Carmelo, 
where,  for  a  long  period,  the  place  of  his  interment  was  un 
known.    Recently,  however,  proofs  were  ascertained  of  its 
locality,  and  means  were  taken  to  substantiate  the  fact  by 
further  investigations,  which  were  successful. 

(16)  Gen.  John  C.  Fremont  came  to  this  country  in  1846  as  the 
"Pathfinder,  "and  his  first  movement  was  in  favor  of  declar 
ing  California  independent,  and  took  part  in  what  was  called 
the  raising  of  the  Bear  Flag  in  Sonoma.     He  was  prominent 
in  many  of  the  subsequent  difficulties  which  occurred  here, 
until  at  length  they  subsided  from  the  entire  subjection  of  the 
country  to  the  American  forces.      After  the  declaration  of 
peace  and  the  admission  of  California  into  the  Union  as  a 
State,  he  and  the  Hon.  William  M.  Gwin  were  elected  the 
first  representatives  to  the  Government  at  Washington.    In 
his  intercourse  with  the  native  Californians  he  made  himself 
popular,  and  they  would  have  been  glad  to  have  had  him 
successful  in  his  attempt  at  Sonoma  to  establish  a  free  and  in 
dependent  government. 

(17)  Don  Jose  de  la  Guerra,  an  native  of  Novales,  Spain,  who 
came  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  there  entered  the  service  of 
the  Government  of  Spain  as  a  lieutenant,  and  came  to  this 
country  in  1802.    He  was  stationed  at  Monterey,  and  afterward 


CALIFORNIA.  157 


appointed  Comandante  of  the  Presidio  at  Santa  Barbara. 
Subsequently  he  was  elected  to  represent  California  in  the 
Congress  of  Mexico,  to  which  place  he  repaired,  where  he  ar 
rived  too  late  to  take  his  seat,  as  it  had  already  been  taken  by 
his  suplente,  so  he  returned  and  resumed  his  position  as  Com 
andante,  which  he  retained  for  some  years,  when  he  retired 
to  private  life. 

(18)  The  Island  of  San  Nicholas,  which,  like  its  neighboring 
isles,  was  once  populated,  until,  from  frequent  disturbances 
by  the  hordes  of  Russian  Codiacks,  the  islanders  were  induced 
to  abandon  their  homes  and  seek  protection  on  the  mainland. 

(19)  The  Mission  of  San  Gabriel  that  stands  in  the  center  of 
the  grand  valley  of  Santa  Anita,  and  the  most  fertile  portion 
of  Los  Angeles  county. 

(20)  The  reverend  Friar,  Junipero  Serra,  who  headed  a  band 
of  missionaries  to  this  coast  in  the  year  1769,  when  he  com 
menced  his  grand  work  of  subjecting  and  Christianizing  the 
rude  Indian  race  of  California.    He  located  his  first  Mission 
at  this  place,  afterward  increased  by  a  chain  of  missionary 
posts,  twenty  in  number,  extending  to  the  northern  shores  of 
San  Pablo  Bay,  gathering  around  them  a  crude  population  of 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  Indians,  which,  under  the  di 
rection  and  guidance  of  their  spiritual  fathers,  were  taught 
the  most  useful  requirements.    Some  were  carpenters,  some 
were  blacksmiths,  others  saddlers  and  shoemakers,  and  herd 
ers  of  the  vast  numbers  of  cattle,  which,  in  course  of  time, 
accumulated  to  hundreds  of  thousands.    The  female  depart 
ment  was  taught  spinning  and  weaviner,  and  all  the  necessary 
requirements  of  household  economy,  so  that  they  lived  along 
a  life  of  contentment  and  ease,  with  rarely  a  case  of  insubord 
ination. 

(21)  Don  Juan  Bandini,  who  came   to  this   country  from 
Lima,  with  his  father,  who  was  an  Italian  by  birth,  and  who 
had  commanded  a  Spanish  ship-of-war  in  early   days.    Don 
Juan,  from  his  urbanity  and  pleasing  manners,  was  very  pop 
ular,  and  had  always  taken  an  active  part  in  the  interests  of 
California,  having  represented  her  in  the  halls  of  the  Monte- 


158 


CALIFORNIA. 


zumas.    His  descendants  were  numerous,  and  were  celebrated 
everywhere  for  their  beauty  and  attractive  manners. 

(22)  Captain  Henry  D.  Fitch  and  Joseph  Snooks,  both  were 
captains  of  ships  plying  between  this  coast  and  Lima.  The 
former  was  an  American,  who  came  here  in  early  days,  a  na 
tive  of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  latter  was  a  European,  who 
had  resided  many  years  on  the  South  American  coast. 


Robinsonf 

Hal  A  foT+y^  ft 


R658 


MC    5   H 


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